With a coffee and a quark schneke pastry in our bellies, we set off on an hour long walk to see the snappily titled ‘Nazi Documentation Centre’, and the rally grounds of the SS. I’ve never been so absorbed in history and find it hard to contextualise things I just simply have read. To see the place and read the stories of the people, is so much more poignant to me.
This area of Nuremberg has not always been so visible and openly talked about until more recent times. As a very sensitive topic, you can understand the different mentalities as time has gone by, not always the right framing of what was a very terrifying situation.
As we approached, the domineering and imposing building, based on the Rome colluseum (but nothing like it too- a facade) loomed ahead, with the added spiky pier of glass, that is set to be the documentation centre.
We discovered the centre itself is under renovation at the moment, so the exhibition was in a nearby tall brick, and very dark, somber hall, of sorts attached to the edge. I’m sure it did say, but I forget… so much information!
The hall is chock full of posters, Letters, hats, more propaganda than you can shake a stick at, and most importantly, people’s stories. We were in there for what seemed like hours, absorbing, sometimes shame on humanity, sometimes pride in humanity, sometimes immense grief for the enormity of it all.
There were many little blocks that had on one face the photo of the person involved, the next face a quote from them, the next the brief story of their involvement, and finally their birth and death dates. No one was immune from this analogy. The unusualness of this particular exhibit is it is literally a documentation. There is no particular focus on atrocities, disgusting photos, just simply what happened to these people. Some politicians, some architects. Some directors of huge propaganda movements that got away with any kind of charge. Many different types of workers, some in large factories that were trying to outlaw any kind of ‘sympathising’ with Jews or communists, such as criticising what was happening or offering a cigarette to a Russian. The company Siemens behaved terribly in this respect, handing in employees for the death penalty. And then there were the forced labour people, I saw stories of Polish and Ukrainian. Families torn apart to go to different work camps, many never to see each other again, either worked to death or murdered for not being useful enough, subservient enough, or white/ straight/ Christian (the list goes on) enough.
The exhibition also approached the subject of the area had been previously, initially parts blown up, and then used for religious congregations (which was then deemed to be inappropriate), and finally, settled on an area for recreation and learning. Sports and music festivals go on in the grounds.
A particular item was a red beanie hat, not very old, from 2021, embroidered with the phrase ‘make anti-fascism great again’. That is definitely a thought provoking one. I do wish I had taken more photos. But it always seems like a crass thing to do in such a place. And I like the idea of being immersed in the moment. A bit like a concerts or gigs where people stand viewing through their phone screen as they record. I would hate to do that and not actually experience what was happening. There is a fine line between documentation to remember what you have experienced, and disrespecting what is going on, in my opinion.
We decided to take a walk to the rally grounds, to reflect on what we had just seen and learnt. Absolutely glorious autumnal day out there, and we discussed what I had seen my friend Gill, had written about why trees leaves go orange and red. (Tree chemistry is fascinating!). The background is a bit of a thought point…the glaring opposition of nature’s beauty and human-built horror.
We walked the long road, up to perhaps the most iconic point. Where the Fuhrer would have excited and roused the masses into a hysteria never seen before. You can’t imagine that any of us would have been immune if a different country had of landed up with such a charismatic and dangerous man leading. A lethal combination.
I tentatively climbed the steps, knowing that I am rubbish without a handrail due to my tenancy to get vertigo.
It was worth the climb, although I did not stand in the rail part where it is famous to see Hitler doing his speeches. I watched multiple people go up there smiling for their cameras, one guy even sneakily and deplorably doing the Nazi salute. It just seemed kind of unnecessary in all honesty. I was glad to be able to see it and the scale of the rally grounds in person, but I had no desire to make it into some kind of social media post, and the memory will be one of quiet contemplation.
The photo below is a monument to the fallen of Nuremberg. We reflect that there is no winner in war. So it’s right to remember the dead of this state/ country too, forced or brainwashed to go to a war they didn’t envisage, normal people like you and I.
May peace, love and humanity prevail.
